March 11, 2009

Sitios de Bodega 2006 Rueda Conclass Verdejo, about $14

Verdejo used to be one of those grapes that grew abundantly but no one ever talked about; the wines that were made in its home of Rueda, northwest of Madrid, didn't warrant it. That's changed over the past two decades, especially as winemakers blended in more aromatic grapes like sauvignon blanc and viura. Sometimes, in fact, Rueda's wines taste more like sauvignon than anything else. Not so Conclass: sixth-generation vintner Ricardo Sanz adds just enough to heighten the grape's herbal tang, but not so much that it looses its lemony, mineral brightness. It's delicious with flounder and citrus-avocado salsa. Eric Solomon Selections/European Cellars, Charlotte, N.C.;

This first appeared in the Denver Post.

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