February 25, 2009
Innocent Bystander 2007 Victoria Pinot Noir, $20
Two weeks ago, large swaths of Australia’s Victoria region were destroyed by the worst wildfires the country has ever seen. Entire towns have been wiped off the map. Wine may seem like a petty concern in the face of such a tragedy, but it’s a livelihood for many, from pedigreed winemakers to cellar rats just out of school to vineyard workers who’ve spent their working lives in the vines. Being half a world away, there’s only so much we can do, but one of those things is to buy their wines. Innocent Bystander’s Pinot Noir is a good introduction to the region, which tends to put out wines that are leaner and more elegant than those from neighboring South Australia. Bystander’s pinot is rich with raspberry fruit and earthy underpinnings, and comes in at $20—a bargain in the world of pinot.
Imported by Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA.
This review first appeared in the Denver Post.