November 05, 2008

Yalumba 2007 South Australia Y Series Viognier, about $12

Viognier may be more talked about than drunk. The grape is notoriously difficult to grow — even in its homeland of Condrieu, in France's Rhône Valley. But for the past few years, Yalumba has consistently been making some great viognier in South Australia. It has the oldest and largest commercial viognier plantings in the Southern Hemisphere. It also has winemaker Louisa Rose, who coaxes the grape to greatness here. Her best is The Virgilius, from the oldest vines — wonderfully restrained, with light lily notes and sweet apricot and peach flavors curbed by savory stoniness. But if you can't swing $40, check out the Y Series — lighter and simpler, the peach flavors and floral notes wispier, but, at $12, that's OK, especially when there's Thai takeout — green papaya salad and a yellow chicken curry — for dinner.

Imported by Negociants USA, Napa, Calif.

This review first appeared in the Denver Post.

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