March 19, 2008

Château d'Aqueria 2006 Tavel Rose, about $16; Domaine Chandon Rose, about $20

Easter, whether celebrated with a clove-studded ham or a Peepstravaganza, is a terrific excuse to pull out the first roses of spring. Those who equate pink with wimpy should first hand over their hams to me, who will relish each bite of rosy flesh, or they should put down the white zinfandel and find instead a classic rose with guts—say, a wine from Tavel, an appellation in France devoted entirely to pink wines. Château d'Aqueria, the largest producer in the area, makes a $16 example that's a terrific introduction to bold pinks, with bold cherry and raspy raspberry flavors that make even red-wine drinkers salivate.

As for the Peeps, a little more sweetness is preferable; a fruity sparkling such as the Domaine Chandon Rose could do the trick.

Château d'Aqueria is imported by Kobrand, New York.

This review first appeared in the Denver Post.

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