February 21, 2008
Cantina Sociale Cooperative di Copertino 2001 Copertino, about $14
There's a sense among wine geeks that big wineries can't possibly make good wine, but the Cantina Sociale Cooperativa di Copertino defies that logic. A cooperative winery for vinegrowers in Copertino, far down the heel of Italy's boot, the cooperative blends the local negroamaro with a touch of floral, malvasia near and ages it two years.
The resulting Riserva has a grace and delicacy that's counter to what you might expect in Apulia's warmth, from the light color to the fragrant, tobacco-scented cherry fruit.
If you're used to big wines, this may seem wan at first, but the bright acidity keeps it lively even next to mammoth meatballs or other hearty winter dishes.
Imported by Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York.
This review first appeared in the Denver Post.