January 08, 2008

Paul Jaboulet Aîne 2006 Côtes du Rhône Villages, about $16

I don't care how cold it gets now that I've laid in a supply of Jaboulet's 2006 Côtes du Rhône Villages. This 174-year-old house in Tain L'Hermitage, the heart of France's Rhône Valley, produces many regal reds from exalted appellations such as Hermitage. This wine shares the dense flavor and elegant structure of its more celebrated cousins for a fraction of the price. It's so rich with sweet cherry flavors that it's nearly chewy, with lots of spice notes that feel warming and bright. And its tannin manages to be velvety yet firm, with enough grip to take on a meaty winter stew.

Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons, New York.

This review first appeared in the Denver Post.

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