November 27, 2007

George Duboeuf 2006 Moulin-à-Vent Domaine des Rosiers, about $15

Now that the hubbub around Beaujolais Nouveau has died away, we can get back to the business of real Beaujolais. That is, the wines from Beaujolais that are made to be consumed all year round, not only on the third Thursday of November. The best can age for years, taking on deeper, earthier flavors to complement their cherry juiciness. Yet these wines still sell for a song, since Beaujolais Nouveau has given the region a reputation for light, simple, bubblegum wines. And although Georges Duboeuf is often accused of encouraging this style with his widely successful Beaujolais Nouveau, his village wines are entirely different. Check out his Moulin-à-Vent from Domaine des Rosiers, for instance. Smoky and dense with meaty plum flavor, it's a serious red with elegance and power. Perfect for a Sunday roast, or a warming winter stew.

Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, N.Y.

This first appeared in the Denver Post.

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