May 16, 2007

Ca' del Solo 2006 Monterey County Albariño, about $18

There's been a sea change at Bonny Doon, and here's evidence. After making some 425,000 cases a year, Randall Grahm sold off his Big House and Cardinal Zin lines last year. Now he puts out 35,000 cases a year, focused on his Ca' del Solo Vineyard in Soledad.

In place of cartoons, the wine labels sport what looks like an elegant flower; it's actually an image of the crystalline structure of the wine, something that Grahm says reflects the life force of a wine, which has gotten stronger in Ca' del Solo since they started to farm it biodynamically in 2003.

Whether you believ it or not, do taste the wine: Floral and broad with this Galician grape's waxy feel, it's different from any Spanish or Portuguese version yet just as fitting with chorizo and clams or any seafood you happen to be serving.

Bonny Doon Vineyard, Santa Cruz, Calif.;

This review first appeared in the Denver Post.

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