March 28, 2007

Santadi 2005 Vermentino di Sardegna Cala Silente, about $16

Vermentino grows all along the Mediterranean coast, from Spain, where it is thought to have originated, to Italy, where many of the best versions come from. Those grown along the cool shores of Liguria are crisp and bright - terrific for cooling down with on a hot day, or drinking with raw oysters. But when it comes to spring drinking, the richer versions from warmer areas like Sardinia fit the bill better.

Try the Cala Silente, for instance. It's broad and satiny, filled with savory toasted almond flavor - light enough not to be cloying, and rich enough to be warming. And it's delicious with grilled and fried fish.

Imported by Empson USA, Alexandria, Va.

This review first appeared in the Denver Post.

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