January 10, 2007

Nigl 2006 Kremser Freiheit Grüner Veltliner, about $16

While matching wines to this week’s recipes, grüner veltliner kept coming to mind. It goes with nearly every dish here. The grape, which thrives in Austria, makes white wines that can range from sharply acidic with a limey zing to broad and soft, with flavors of guava and peas. All, though, have an underlying vegetal flavor that recalls peas or lentils, a bass note that allows them to handle a roast pork loin as well as they do a light salad. Martin Nigl makes outstanding versions. Most are expensive and need aging to show their best, but the Kremser Freiheit is only $16 and ready to drink tonight.

Imported by Terry Theise Estate Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY

This review first appeared in the Denver Post.

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