November 29, 2006

Loosen Bros. 2005 Mosel Dr. L Riesling, about $11

I once met a German winemaker who said that he wanted his wines to dance. He was in the right place, because if there were a vinous ballerina, it would be riesling, Germany’s greatest grape. Take Ernst Loosen’s Dr. L, for instance, for an incredibly affordable and delicious example. This is his simplest riesling, yet it shows all the qualities of a star: It’s sumptuous, bursting with peach and lemon flavors, and yet it glides across the tongue, slim, weightless and bright. The acidity winds through the wine like long, sinewy muscles, allowing it last longer than you may have thought possible. And it’s incredibly flexible, able to jeté from oysters to roast ham in one joyful bound.

Imported by Loosen Bros. USA, Oregon City, OR

This review first appeared in the Denver Post.

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