October 04, 2006

The Royal Tokaji Wine Co. 2005 Tokaji Dry Furmint, about $14

The Tokaji region (pronounced "toe-kai") of Hungary once produced some of the world's most sought-after wines — "the wine of kings," it was once called. Since the early 1990s, the region has been recovering that reputation in its intensely sweet (and intensely expensive) golden dessert wines.

As a wonderful side effect, the country has also been discovering the potential of its native grapes, like furmint, a highly acidic grape that plays a large part in the region's sweet wines, and turning out some refreshingly crisp, dry whites.

The Royal Tokaji Wine Co. has recently released the best dry Tokaji I've ever tasted. The scent alone is mesmerizing — floral and peachy — but the flavor seals the deal, with minerality and zippy citrus notes that make the mouth water for more.

Imported by Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, Calif.

This review first appeared in the Denver Post.

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