October 18, 2006

Burgáns 2005 Rías Baixas Albariño, about $14

Either the search function on my website doesn't work very well, or I've been holding out on you. It seems I haven't recommended a Spanish albariño here in at least two years. This is strange. Because the grape has a broad, satisfying texture, plush almondlike flavors and yet zingy acidity, albariño is my go-to wine whether it's hot out or I'm having fish, or it's chilly or I've ordered the double-cut pork chop but crave white wine.

I search out albariños on wine lists because they are nearly always affordable, even when the restaurant has marked up the price three times. They aren't as cheap as they used to be, but Burgáns, a brand from Martín Códax, remains widely available at less than $15, and its satiny, marzipan-citrus flavor captures the lush, cool hills of Galicia, where it grows.

Imported by Eric Solomon Selections/European Cellars, Charlotte, N.C.

This review first appeared in the Denver Post.

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