September 13, 2006
Recanati 2004 Galilee Shiraz ($16)
There is such a thing as good kosher wine. Here’s a bottle to prove it. It’s made by Lewis Pasco, an American who’s worked at California wineries such as Chimney Rock, Marimar Torres and St. Supéry. And it’s made from syrah, a grape that bears the country’s dry heat better than the more commonly planted merlot and cabernet sauvignon. And, even more importantly, it’s grown the cooler heights of the Galilee, so the grapes ripen more slowly, taking on more complex, rich flavors. So complex and rich, in fact, that it’s best to pour this bottle into a decanter a couple of hours before serving it (perhaps while you’re marinating the steak that you’ll grill to go with it). Then, it will be relaxed enough to show itself in all its floral, plummy beauty, a fresh and vibrant red to put to rest any of those qualms you may have had about wine with the “k-word.”
Imported by Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, FL
This review first appeared in the Denver Post.