July 19, 2006

Scarpantoni 2005 McLaren Vale Ceres Rosé, about $15

It happens every spring: Hungry for color after the drab winter, starving for fresh fruit and longing for things that recall warm, sunny summer days, I go on a rosé binge. For about three weeks, everything looks rosy. Then reality sets in: Not all rosés are great. Some are downright as drab as the Front Range in February, devoid of color.

I get choosier. A pink wine has to knock my socks off, impress with flavors as delicate or as vibrant as its hue, to earn a place in my fridge. Like Scarpantoni's Ceres, a fuchsia beauty jazzed with bright acidity.It's made from gamay—most known as the grape for Beaujolais—that Scarpantoni has grown in Australia's warm McLaren Vale for 20-aught years. It's brimming with bright red cherry flavors, tangy and fresh, ready to party in the backyard with a rack of barbecued ribs.

Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.

Thie review first appeared in the Denver Post.

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