April 12, 2006

Bonny Doon 2005 California Vin Gris de Cigare ($12)

If holidays were rated on foods served, Easter would be right up there at the top.

I'm not talking chocolate eggs. I'm talking ham. A large roast in all its juicy pink glory, brown sugar on top to sweeten its already tender meat. A leg of lamb roasted with thyme and rosemary is nothing to sneeze at either.

The problem is the sides: We're thinking spring - asparagus, peas and other green things, but it'll be weeks before these vegetables are actually in season. Conjure up spring instead with a pink wine, like Bonny Doon's Vin Gris de Cigare. Its crisp, fresh, thyme-laced strawberry flavors pronounce firmly and deliciously that SPRING IS HERE. It's delicious with ham, and it takes that leg of lamb straight to Provence.
About $12; Bonny Doon Vineyard, Santa Cruz, Calif.; bonnydoonvineyard.com

This review first appeared in the Denver Post.

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