November 02, 2005

Selbach 2004 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer QbA Dry Fish Label Riesling

(Imported by Terry Theise Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.; about $14)

Fear that all German wines are sweet? Crack open this one for proof that they aren't.

If you could juice rocks, this might be what the liquid would taste like. It's as clear as crystal and as bracing as cold, hard water.

What to do with it? A glance at the label tells you all you need to know: steam, sauté, or roast a fish; the wine feels like a natural next to a trout as water.

It's made by Johannes Selbach, one of the young, open-minded vintners who has been working hard to update the image of Gethat have made the wines so highly esteemed for centuries-namely, that intense minerality, that sense of place that tells you that the wine couldn't have some from anyplace other than the banks of Germany's Mosel river.

If you like it, you're in luck: This is just the simplest wine in Selbach's portfolio, and they get better from here.

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