November 23, 2005
Georges Duboeuf 2004 Moulin-a-Vent Domaine des Rosiers
(Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, N.Y.)
"Beaujolais est arrive!" announce the signs in wine stores around this time of year, heralding the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau, the first wines of the harvest from Beaujolais, France. It is exciting to taste a wine so fresh: The grapes for Beaujolais Nouveau were hanging on the vines just a couple of months ago, so the wine is barely more than just-pressed juice. Rarely do we get to drink a wine with such immediacy and primal, grapey flavor. But the hype surrounding the wine overshadows everything else the region has to offer, and that's too bad. Enjoy the Nouveau in November, but also stock up on the wines that the region made its name on originally - wines from small villages like Morgon, Brouilly, or Moulin-à-Vent, where the grapes for Georges Duboeuf's Domaine des Rosiers grow. It's made from the same grape - gamay - as Nouveau, and shares the bright freshness of acidity and fruit as Nouveau versions, but the combination of higher-quality fruit and an extra year of age makes for a Beaujolais to sink your teeth into, rich and firm with roasted cherry flavor, yet light enough to match roast salmon or, of course, roast turkey with all the trimmings.
This article originally appeared in the Denver Post.