July 20, 2005
Bonny Doon 2004 California Pacific Rim Chenin Blanc
(Bonny Doon Vineyard, Santa Cruz, CA; about $12)
Chenin blanc gets very little play in California, but if there’s anyone who’s going to pay it some attention, it’s Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Grahm specializes in the overlooked and unloved, planting grapes formerly unheard of in California, like pigato and loureiro, and buying grapes from vineyards in forlorn pockets of California, (like, say, Los Alamos, Ca., pop. 1,372.) This means two things to you and me: we get to drink really cool, interesting wines, and we get them cheap. Like this chenin blanc, which is as fresh and crisp as an early autumn apple, with bright, lively acidity that makes it easy to drink, especially when you have a platter of sweet, fat peel-and-eat shrimp within arm’s reach.
This review first appeared in the Denver Post.