April 06, 2005
Berger 2003 Kremstal Grüner Veltliner
(Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; about $12)
When asparagus starts hitting the stands—I mean the fresh stuff, tender spring stalks, not winter’s woody poles—it’s time to find some grüner veltliner. With bright, fresh flavors that range from lemon to lentils, this Austrian grape makes white wines that taste like they were designed to go with vegetables. The problem is, grüner veltliner has become so hip among the wine cognoscenti that it’s hard to find an affordable version now. The Berger family is one of the last holdouts: its one-liter bottle of lemony fresh veltliner runs about $12—not much more than a couple thick bunches of spring’s first speargrass.
This recommendation first appeared in the Denver Post.