December 01, 2004

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Mevushal

Imported by Martin Sinkoff Selections/Pasternak Wine Imports, Harrison, N.Y.; about $40.

Hanukkah begins next Wednesday. Most people think of this as the festival of lights, when candles are lit in menorahs to commemorate a miraculous event in which a bottle holding enough oil to light the temple candles for just one night lasted eight. The food-obsessed, like myself, think of it as the festival of fried foods. The latkes and jelly-filled doughnuts of northern European tradition; the fried fish, fried chicken, and fried cookies of Mediterranean Jews - it's an endless parade of foods made crispy and delectable by submersion in hot oil.

And what goes best with fried foods? Sparkling wine, of course. Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte offers a kosher, mevushal version of its crisp, racy Brut (look for "mevushal" on the label). Its dry honey and apple flavors are delicious whether or not you're keeping kosher.

This recommendation originally appeared in the Denver Post.

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