November 03, 2004

Quinta do Feital Auratus 2003 Vinho Regional Minho Alvarinho-Trajadura

Imported by Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; about $14.

Vinho Verde, Portugal's light, fresh "green wine," is typically drunk all summer long and forgotten by the first frost.

Not this version. Though not technically a Vinho Verde for reasons lost on everyone but local administrators, it's made from the same grapes (Alvarinho and Trajadura) grown in the same area (the Minho). What's different is that it's made by a Spaniard, Marcial Dorado, and it's mouth-filling and steadfast, with fresh, clean, smooth yellow apple flavors that last for minutes.

It's a Vinho Verde to enjoy into winter, especially now, when kales, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and other hearty greens are flooding the markets.

This article originally appeared in the Denver Post.

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