October 27, 2004

Sinister Hand 2003 Columbia Valley

Produced by Owen Roe, Newburg, Oregon. About $22.

Just in time for Halloween, a wine with a sinister, spooky label ... that actually has great wine inside!

Produced by Owen Roe, a wine label from viticulturalist Jerry Owen and winemaker David O'Reilly - who roam the Pacific Northwest for the grapes that go into their intense wines - this lives up to its name.

In the first sip, a curtain of black Syrah flavors falls across the tongue, dark and velvety; the next moment a streak of blood-red, cherry-bright Grenache flashes across the darkness. The obscure Counoise mucks around mysteriously, while Mourvèdre strikes a bass chord of spice and animal notes. (Trust me, this is a good thing.)

It's the perfect match for roast bat, though steak will do in a pinch.

This article originally appeared in the Denver Post.

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