October 06, 2004
Domaine Joel Rochette 2002 Régnié Cuvée des Braves Vieilles Vignes
About $16. Imported by Alain Junguenet Selection/Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ.
Beaujolais gets bashed a lot for being cheap and bubble-gummy, but here’s the fact: real wine lovers do drink Beaujolais, when it’s wine like Domaine Joel Rochette’s Régnié Cuvée des Braves. Unlike the millions of cases of bubblegum-scented, grape-juicy mass-produced stuff that pours into the marketplace with great fanfare every third Thursday of November, this one’s from a small family-run estate in Régnié, one of the ten villages that is allowed to put its name on the label, and from old vines (vieilles vignes in French) that give intensely-flavored grapes. The result is a limited amount of dark, spicy wine with a texture light enough for roast salmon yet enough wild strawberry flavor to stand up to a steak. And it runs only a few more bucks than the cheap stuff: about $16.
This recommendation was originally published in the Denver Post.