September 29, 2004

Chiyomusubi Tokubetsu Junmai

About $35/720 ml bottle.

Sake isn’t wine, but good ones drink like wine, so this week’s Wine of the Week is Chiyomusubi Tokubetsu Junmai. That’s a mouthful, but it’s not so hard: Chiyomusubi is the name of an artisan 139-year-old sake brewery in Tottori, northwest Japan. “Tokubetsu” means special. And “junmai” means “pure rice sake”—there’s nothing in it but milled rice, water, and koji, the special mold used for sake. That means you get pure flavor, in this case, dry yet fruity notes like white peaches or yellow apples without the acidic bite. Its rich, satiny texture feels sumptuous against crab cakes and sooths the burn from lightly spicy vegetable stir-fries. Fine sakes are delicate, so keep them refrigerated to stay fresh. Pull this one out about a quarter-hour before dinner to warm up a little—you’ll get more fragrance and flavor that way.

This recommendation was originally published in the Denver Post.

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