August 01, 2004
Small Plate Olympics
"Malagouzia is the next riesling," said Yiannis Voyatzis as we sat surrounded by mezedes, an array of different Greek dishes meant to be shared. Voyatzis, enologist at Boutari for nearly twenty years, laughed at the outrageousness of the statement - after all, there are only a small handful of wineries in Greece that make wines from that ancient Greek grape. But then we began to taste. Satin-textured with honey-soft fruit flavors and gentle floral notes, the malagouzia wrapped itself around every plate expertly. It picked up the sea-filled sweetness of the fat grilled shrimp; it tempered the spice in the peppery feta spread. It tangled with the tangy smoky sauce bathing the smooth, chewy snails, and its floral notes mingled with the saffron-sauced monkfish. This brought two things to mind: One, that there was far more to Greek food than spanakopita, staple of Greek diners across the States, and two, that Voyatzis might have a point. There are wines coming out of Greece right now that could take a place in the list of vinous greats: whites as versatile as riesling, as mineral-laden as Côte d'Or chardonnay and as fascinating as Loire-grown chenin, and reds that could compete with merlot for pure plummy hedonism, or offer pinot-like charms of spice and acidity. And now that these fine wines are pushing Retsina aside, it's time we update what we know about Greek food. It's not all greasy and cold; in fact, done right, it's one of the most varied cuisines in the world.
Read the rest of the article at Wine & Spirits magazine.